Which Calico Do I Need? A Guide to Calico Weights & Uses

We stock seven calicos and plain cottons, in different weights, widths and finishes. This guide puts them side by side so you can compare them before you order samples.

Which calico for which project

If you're making… Consider Why
Garment and bridal toiles C340 Cotton Calico Medium Weight 160cm Our medium-weight unbleached calico, and the one most of our workrooms order for toiles and fitting mock-ups
Heavier toiles and pattern cutting 987 Natural Heavy Cotton Calico 183cm Heavier than C340 at 208gsm, and wider
Theatre scenery and backcloths 987 Natural Heavy Cotton Calico 183cm At 183cm it's our widest calico, so large flats and cloths need fewer seams
Artist canvases C340 or, for large pieces, 987 C340 at 160cm wide; 987 at 183cm
Dyeing and printing C340 or Organic Cotton Half Panama C340 is undyed loom state; Half Panama is a 230gsm organic cotton woven for clear print reproduction
Traditional upholstery interlining Calico 152cm Polycotton FR Polyester/cotton with an NDFR finish compliant with BS 5852
Upholstery and interiors 987 Natural Heavy Cotton Calico 183cm Our heaviest calico, in 100% cotton
Lining, sheeting and quilting Organic Plain Cotton Our lightest, at 156gsm, with a soft handle and drape
Clothes, patchwork and cushions in white or black White Medium Cotton or Black Medium Cotton (Flame-Retardant) Medium-weight cotton in white, or in black with a flame-retardant finish

The specifications side by side

Cloth Width Weight Composition and finish
C340 Cotton Calico Medium Weight 160cm Medium 100% cotton, unbleached loom state
987 Natural Heavy Cotton Calico 183cm 208gsm 100% cotton, unbleached loom state
White Medium Cotton 150cm Medium 100% cotton, white
Black Medium Cotton (Flame-Retardant) 152cm Medium 100% cotton, flame-retardant finish
Organic Plain Cotton 152cm 156gsm 100% organic cotton, shrunk
Organic Cotton Half Panama 152cm 230gsm 100% organic cotton, GOTS certified, shrunk
Calico Polycotton FR 152cm 155gsm 52% polyester, 48% cotton, NDFR finish compliant with BS 5852

Loom state or shrunk

C340 and 987 are sold in their loom state: unbleached and unwashed, straight from the loom. Loom-state cloth shrinks when washed, and our 987 heavy calico shrinks by around 10%. If the finished piece will be laundered, wash the cloth before you cut. The two organic cottons are sold with a shrunk finish.

Width

Our calicos run from 150cm to 183cm wide. Check the width before you work out quantities, because a pattern lay planned on 183cm won't fit on 152cm.


Compare them in the hand: order up to 5 samples for £2 postage, free for trade account holders. Questions about any of our calicos? Email hello@wolfintextiles.co.uk. Browse the calico range.

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Choosing cloth

Not sure which cloth you need?

Order a sample of anything we stock, or email us with what you're making and we'll point you to the right cloth.

Workroom Essentials